The 2012 Spring Couture shows have arrived, and after a year of scandal, the Dior house seems to be regaining an even keel. After a rollercoaster of a collection presented during the Fall 2011 Couture show, John Galliano’s former right-hand man and current stand-in Bill Gaytten presented forty cohesive looks. The Spring 2012 Dior couture collection harkened back to the New Look. The color palette was simple, ranging from white to grey to black, with pops of red and deep purple. The first look out featured the wide lapels, nipped waist and full skirt characteristic of the New Look. A romantic embellished floral pattern danced along the see-through taffeta skirt, mixing the sweet nature of yesteryear with the bold and risqué element of modernity. The full-skirts gave way to the wrap jacket and pencil skirt that were also popular in the late 1940’s, and again, the see-through fabric gave the collection a modern twist. A luxe array of fabrics and textures also added to the rather traditional silhouettes. Sleek black alligator-skin jackets were paired with delicate skirts, as if to counterbalance the delicate pieces that preceded them. The beautifully constructed collection gave way to floor-length gowns that appeared to be variations of the first dresses in full bloom. Tight-fitting bodices exploded into huge, flared skirts that consumed the runway in ruffles and pleated tulle.
Gaytten’s nod to the original house of Dior coupled with the grandiose and artful notions that Galliano brought to the house in 1996 show that Galliano’s right-hand man might have what it takes to assume the position of creative director at the scandal-stricken company. With multiple collections being displayed after Galliano’s departure, it seems as though LVMH is unable to find the perfect replacement for the line. Perhaps this collection will solidify Gaytten’s place as the final contender for the position of creative director at Dior.
- Melanie
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