A fashion and lifestyle magazine and blog produced by Students in the Design and Merchandising program at Drexel University

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Galliano Continued...


In the 1990s, John Galliano was famed for his “over the top” French shows. He was appointed as the head designer for Dior after working for Givenchy. During his time as the couturier of Dior, Galliano created some of the most innovative fashion designs and shows. Fashions productions back then were minimalistic and Galliano distinguished himself from his contemporaries by producing dramatic and intricate collections that came to life on the runway.

Unfortunately for the designer in year 2011 he was caught on camera making drunken anti-sematic comments in a Paris Bistro. His racist comments were inexcusable and Galliano was dismissed from Dior. However, Dior announced that it would continue to support the Galliano brand financially due to the license, despite the scandal. Shortly after Bill Gaytten was named the Creative Director of John Gallaino SA.

I thought it would be interesting to compare and contrast two fashion shows under the Galliano brand, one being the Spring/Summer 1994 collection designed by Galliano himself and the other being the Spring/Summer 2015 collection designed by Gaytten.

The 1994 collection named ‘Princess Lucretia,’ is inspired from the Princess’s escape from Russia. The show begins with models running in massive crinolines with wolves howling in the background symbolizing the escape. The models walk with great confidence that represents the Princess’s rebellious spirit. The show is theatrical, full of energy, and suspense. The capes, flowing locks, and bias-cut designs characterize it. It is clear that for Galliano, the runway has always been his narrative medium.

 
The recent 2015 collection designed by Gaytten in my opinion goes against what the brand is typically known for. The qualities that made Galliano a fashion namesake in the first place are no longer present. Minimalism in terms of production seems to be the theme here, it lacks the excitement of a true Galliano runway. To compensate for the theatrics it did not posses, Gaytten designed an intricate runway walking pattern for the models. In a result, it complicated the lineup; the models entered from the center, they walked up steps that led to a circular runway and the audience viewpoints were obstructed because of this. The collection was "junglesque," it had bamboo prints, wood trimmed basket weave headpieces, and iridescent plastic leaves. There was a clear point of


In conclusion, when a designer that carries the name of a brand steps away from the pedestal, it is hard to find a replacement. Just by watching what the runway encompassed before and after John Galliano’s reign, I realized it is difficult to replicate the intensity of this creative genius. But it looks like Maison Martin Margiela lucked out recently and maybe the signature Galliano show hasn’t reached an end…


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